Sunday, February 21, 2010
Wild Ginger knit tops
I uploaded pictures of a couple of knit tops drafted with PMB. The first is a cotton poly knit three quarter length sleeve top, tunic length. The bust dart is rotated into the shoulder. If I make another one of these I will move the shoulder seam towards the front because the gathered dart has a tendency to slide off the shoulder. If you cut off an inch or two and tape it to the back shoulder, that problem is eliminated.
The second top is a design from PMB too. I was in Mitsua Marketplace looking at Japanese patternbooks. This one was in either Mrs. Stylebook or Lady Boutique. Since this was the only style that appealed, I made some notes into my cell phone and took them home. This is a tunic length top with a flared side seam, cap sleeves, bust dart rotated into the neck line. Then you get rid of the bumps in the neckline caused by the dart fold and add an inch onto the center front and center back. The center back is gathered in and sewn in place under the self fabric edging. The front bust darts and extra fabric is gathered by sewing beads into the neckline with the fullness pulled around the beads. It looks quite a bit like the magazine, except for the side seam bottom. It is supposed to have the pointed ends hanging down on the side, but I didn't get them long enough and probably should have curved them down.
The second top is a design from PMB too. I was in Mitsua Marketplace looking at Japanese patternbooks. This one was in either Mrs. Stylebook or Lady Boutique. Since this was the only style that appealed, I made some notes into my cell phone and took them home. This is a tunic length top with a flared side seam, cap sleeves, bust dart rotated into the neck line. Then you get rid of the bumps in the neckline caused by the dart fold and add an inch onto the center front and center back. The center back is gathered in and sewn in place under the self fabric edging. The front bust darts and extra fabric is gathered by sewing beads into the neckline with the fullness pulled around the beads. It looks quite a bit like the magazine, except for the side seam bottom. It is supposed to have the pointed ends hanging down on the side, but I didn't get them long enough and probably should have curved them down.
Sunday, December 20, 2009
General stuff
It's been quite a while since I've posted anything. The gray tropical wool pants are finished and in the closet. I haven't taken photos yet, but will try to. Took a one hour photography class yesterday. It was definitely worthwhile. I learned about some of the little icons on my digital camera and how to use them. It will definitely help me take better photos in the darkness of my sewing room. Insufficient lighting always seems to be an issue.
Monday, October 19, 2009
Claire Schaffer pants
I've been lazy again. The black test pants are completed, but I haven't reviewed them yet. They have passed the worn at work test and a gray tropical wool pair is cut out. After that, maybe a black tropical wool pair and then a couple of pair of pull on pants. My winter work pants will be complete then. I've created a work mini wardrobe plan. Maybe tonight I will publish it.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Vogue 7468 continued
The first wearable muslin of the Claire Schaffer pants is almost complete. I ended up putting a 1/2 inch dart in the center back to take out excess in the waist. The back pantleg is not balanced on the bottom. Not sure if that's the patterns fault or my fault because I traced it while fitting it. The closure and the hem needs to be put in. They are very comfortable to wear around and look nice (except for the twisted leg). The balancing of the twisted leg should fix it.
ASG had their annual yard sale last weekend. I went to work late and did some serious damage there. A piece of silk jacket weight fabric, wool poly blend (turquoise), black/brown, wool/rayon blend and some linen came home with me as well as the Judy Barlap Japanese Tailoring tapes and a couple of miscellanous pieces of fabric. All for about $32.
I have to figure out how I want to pretreat the gray tropical wool. I may put it into the washing machine on the hand wash cycle.
ASG had their annual yard sale last weekend. I went to work late and did some serious damage there. A piece of silk jacket weight fabric, wool poly blend (turquoise), black/brown, wool/rayon blend and some linen came home with me as well as the Judy Barlap Japanese Tailoring tapes and a couple of miscellanous pieces of fabric. All for about $32.
I have to figure out how I want to pretreat the gray tropical wool. I may put it into the washing machine on the hand wash cycle.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
New work slacks
I'm currently beginning work on Claire Schaffer's pleated pant. My changes to the pattern so far include: grading the pattern up to a size 24, lengthening the leg at the knee by 1 1/2 inches, lengthening the back torso at the waist by 1/2 inch, changing the "j" crotch to an "l" crotch, extending the back crotch point by 1 inch and adding 1 1/2 inches to the front side waist tapering nothing to the hip point. Also I moved the darts out from the middle of the front so that they started at 4 1/2 inches from the center front and reversed them. It made the front hang much better.
The muslin was made up from an old bedsheet. Adding the 1 1/2 inches to the front side waist got rid of many of the fitting problems in the back. The next version is in the works. My first wearable muslin will be out of a black poly rayon twill from Fashion Fabrics Club that I'm not particularly fond of. It just doesn't have much body to it and it seems to fade and look old quite rapidly. If this works out, I have a couple of pieces of tropical wool waiting in the wings.
The muslin was made up from an old bedsheet. Adding the 1 1/2 inches to the front side waist got rid of many of the fitting problems in the back. The next version is in the works. My first wearable muslin will be out of a black poly rayon twill from Fashion Fabrics Club that I'm not particularly fond of. It just doesn't have much body to it and it seems to fade and look old quite rapidly. If this works out, I have a couple of pieces of tropical wool waiting in the wings.
Sunday, September 13, 2009
The silk campshirts are done
I have two new washable silk shirts to wear to work. I'd like to get some more silk shirting from Michael Levine's in L.A. and make some long sleeved shirts. They are really comfortable to wear. The ironing is a PITA.
I'm starting to work on a Claire Schaffer pleated pant pattern. he first draft is done. I graded the pattern up one size to a 24. The legs seem to run short. I added 1 1/2 inches in length at the knee, and 1/2 inch at the center back of the pant. Also added about 1/2 inch to the back crotch extension, a 1 1/2 inch sliver at the front waist grading down to nothing by the hip. Moved the pleats over to 4.5 inches from the center front. The bedsheet version seemed to hang fairly straight after these changes. Now for a poly rayon version.
I'm starting to work on a Claire Schaffer pleated pant pattern. he first draft is done. I graded the pattern up one size to a 24. The legs seem to run short. I added 1 1/2 inches in length at the knee, and 1/2 inch at the center back of the pant. Also added about 1/2 inch to the back crotch extension, a 1 1/2 inch sliver at the front waist grading down to nothing by the hip. Moved the pleats over to 4.5 inches from the center front. The bedsheet version seemed to hang fairly straight after these changes. Now for a poly rayon version.
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